Interwoven: Dress that Crosses Borders and Challenges Boundaries

The Association of Dress Historians

27 October 2017 and 28 October 2017

Art Workers’ Guild, 6 Queen Square, London, WC1N 3AT, England​

Conference tickets are £30 for one day or £50 for both days. All conference tickets include tea and networking sessions, a luncheon buffet, and a wine reception each day. The comprehensive conference programme can be downloaded here.

For more information and to book, please visit:

Listed in alphabetical order per speaker’s last name, the following 62 papers will be presented at our annual conference:

Challenging Boundaries: The Significance of Dress to People with Neurological Conditions and/or Learning Disabilities
Jenna Allsopp, MA
University of Brighton ​

‘Masculine’ Chic, or ‘Feminine’ Sportswear: Tweed in Inter–war Women’s Fashion
Fiona Anderson, PhD
Edinburgh College of Art​

The Right to Honourable Dress: Female Transgression and Dress in Medieval Scandinavia
Eva I. Andersson, PhD
University of Gothenburg, Sweden

‘She Was Naught…of a Woman except in Sex’: The Cross–Dressing of Queen Christina of Sweden, 1626–1689
Inga Lena Ångström Grandien, PhD
Independent Scholar, Stockholm

Less Is More: The Failed Attempt in Venice during the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries to Impose the Black Dress as a Political and Social Barrier
Soline Anthore Baptiste, MA
Ca ‘Foscari University of Venice and University of Grenoble

Mexican Monarchs: Maximilian of Habsburg and Charlotte of Belgium, Representatives of the New Mexican Fashion, 1864–1867
Rosa Edith Moya Ayala
University of Guadalajara, Mexico
Angela Bernice Kennedy Ramos
University of Guadalajara, Mexico

Bloomerism in the Ballroom: Dress Reform and Evening Wear in 1851
Raissa Bretaña, BFA
Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Blurred Boundaries: Tweed, Identity, and the Democratisation of Dress
Constance Karol Burks, MA
Victoria & Albert Museum, London

What Is Artistic Dress and What Can We Do To Stop It?
Robyne Erica Calvert, PhD
Glasgow School of Art

Challenging Gendering: Three Centuries of British Children’s Clothing
Katy Canales
V&A Museum of Childhood, London

Ottomon Dress as an Iconographic Element in Venetian Painting of the Sixteenth Century
Ivana Čapeta Rakić, PhD
University of Split, Croatia

Equity, Ethics, and Transvestism in Book 5 of The Faerie Queene
Alexandra Carter
Tufts University, Massachusetts

Challenging the Boundaries of Fashion for Those with Long–Term Physical Disabilities: Making the Adaptive Mainstream
Alexa Chan, MA
London College of Fashion
Heidi Lempp, PhD
King’s College, London

Reflections of Cultural Contacts in Clothing: Ottoman Elements in Hungarian Clothing in the Seventeenth Century
Éva Deák, PhD
Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Budapest

Sartorial Assimilation: A Case Study of the Vestiary Cross–Cultural Adaption of First–Generation Ethnic Chinese Women who Migrated to Britain from Vietnam, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Malaysia during 1966–1983
Lauren De’Ath
School of Advanced Study, London

From the Philippines to West Africa: A Case of Hispanic ‘Guinea Cloths’ in 1778
Victoria de Lorenzo, MA
University of Glasgow

Dutch Wax Classics: The Introduction of Dutch and English Machinemade Copies of Indonesian Batik into the West African Market from 1890 and Its Legacy
Helen Elands, MA
Independent Scholar, London

Fashioning Colonial Masculinity: The Male Suit as a Cross–Cultural Dress in British–Ruled Palestine
Hadas Fischer
Tel Aviv University, Tel Aviv

Needle & Exile: Spanish Women Artists as Dress and Costume Designers during the Latin–American Exile after 1939
Carmen Gaitán–Salinas, MA
Spanish National Research Council, Madrid

Tina Leser Sketchbooks, 1942–1962: Crossing Continents and Interpreting Ethnic Dress for American Sportswear
Thomas P. Gates, MA, MSLS, MAEd
Kent State University, Ohio

Folk Art in Fashion’: Folk–Inspired Dress and Hybridity in Late–Socialist Hungary, 1968-1980

Olivia Gecseg

Victoria & Albert Museum and The Royal College of Art, London

Cosplay: Fandom, Transformation, and Fictional Identities in a Twenty-First-Century Subculture
Sarah-Mary Geissler, BA
University of Brighton

The Importance of Fashion History in the Implementation of Colonialism: A Case Study of Nineteenth Century British Fashion Plates
Katie Godman
London College of Fashion

Chinoiserie in British Art Deco Fashion of the 1920s
Hiroka Goto
Tsuda University, Tokyo

Beyond Gender: Latex Fashion Design and Subcultural Style in the 1980s
Fiona Jardine, PhD
Glasgow School of Art, Glasgow
Theresa Coburn
Heriot–Watt University, Edinburgh​

The Caribbean Set–Girls and Their Impact on the Slave Carnivals of the Early Nineteenth Century
Kenisha Kelly, MFA
Vassar College, New York

Oil–Fashion and Modernization: The History of Urban Clothing in Iran, 1941–1979
Nargess Khodabakhshi, MFA
Academy of Fine Arts, Vienna

From Clandestine to Conventional: The Identity Transformation of Norwich Wool in Late Eighteenth–Century Sweden
Anna Knutsson, MA, MPhil
European University Institute, Florence

Clothing, Class and the Law: Crossing Class Boundaries in Early Modern Oulu, Finland
Tiina Kuokkanen, PhD
University of Oulu, Finland

Interwoven Boundaries: Various Stylistic Influences in Romanian Court Costume
Calina Langa, PhD
Independent Scholar, Romania

Taste and Transgression: Gender and Sexuality in the Contemporary Avant–Garde Fashion of Bernhard Willhelm
Charlene K. Lau, PhD
Parsons School of Design, New York

The Gender of Tunics in Ancient Israel: The Case Study of Joseph and Tamar’s Garments in the Hebrew Bible
Anne Létourneau, PhD
Temple University, Philadelphia

A Cyborg and A Contemporary Dancer: Future Performances of the Dressed Body and Technology
Julie Macindoe
Parsons The New School for Design, New York

Dressed in Fiction: Scandinavian Cosplay
Maria Mackinney–Valentin, PhD
Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, Copenhagen
Jakob Ion Wille, PhD
Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, Copenhagen

Beyond Ghana: Circulating the ‘Ram’s Horn’ in British and Dutch Factory–Printed Cloth
Allison Martino, MA
University of Michigan, Ann Arbor

Branded Bodies: From McDonald’s to Vetements
Emma McClendon, MA
Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

Their Dress Is Very Different: The Development of the Peruvian Pollera and the Genesis of the Andean Chola
James Middleton, MA
Independent Scholar, New Jersey

Performative Aspects of Queen Victoria’s Clothing
Deirdre Murphy, MA
Historic Royal Palaces, United Kingdom

Breaking Borders within Traditional Russian Costumes
Anna Nikolaeva, MA
The Russian Museum of Ethnography, St. Petersburg
Elena Madlevskaya, PhD
The Russian Museum of Ethnography, St. Petersburg

Transnational Neo–Folk Patriotic Fashion Trends in East–Central Europe and Central Asia
Anna Novikov, PhD
University of Cologne

The Androgynous Dress of the British Artist, Hannah Gluckstein, 1895–1978, and What Gluck’s Museum Dress Collection Reveals
Martin Pel
Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove

The Virgin’s Clothes: Dressed Sculptures of Our Lady in Portugal and Spain
Diana Rafaela Pereira, MA
University of Porto, Portugal

Tomb Effigies: Dressed to Cross the Ultimate Boundary
Chrys Plumley
Morley College, London

Adopted and Adapted: The Cross–Cultural Appropriation of the Eighteenth–Century Blanket Coat in North America
Michael Ballard Ramsey
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, Virginia

‘A New Kind of Menswear for a New Kind of Man’: Constructs of Masculinity at J. W. Anderson and Loewe, 2008–2017
Georgina Ripley, MA
National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh

Gender Stereotypes in Fashion: The Underlying Cultural Factors that Give Rise to Boundaries within Dress
Felicia Scicluna, MA
Independent Scholar, London

Non Binary Dress: A Look at Fashion and Identity along the Gender Spectrum
Erica Suzanne Scott, MA
Independent Scholar, New York

First Lady Michelle Obama and Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge: Challenging the Boundaries of Fashion
Andrea J. Severson
Arizona State University, Tempe

Punk Footwear: From Occupational Origins to a Common Punk Uniform
Rebecca Shawcross
Northampton Museums and Art Gallery

Gustav Klimt, Japanese Kimonos, and Fashion Design in Fin–de–siècle Vienna
Svitlana Shiells, PhD
George Mason University, Fairfax

Mistaken Identity: Cross–Cultural Appropriation and Misappropriation in Twenty–First–Century Fashion
Jooyoung Shin, PhD
Cornell University, New York

A Study of Queen Victoria’s Surviving Clothing
Matthew Storey, MA
Historic Royal Palaces, United Kingdom

The Samfu Suit, 1920–1979: Chinese Diaspora, Identity, Representation
Anushka Tay, MA
Independent Scholar, London

Crossing Gender Boundaries: La Garconne in Early Cinema
Michelle Tolini Finamore, PhD
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Dressed to Disappear: Fashion as Camouflage during the Second World War
Emma Treleaven, MA
Bletchley Park Trust

Looking In & Out: Designing Southeast Asian Fashion for the Modern Woman since 2011
Nadya Wang, MA
LASALLE College of the Arts, Singapore

How To Cross–Dress in Eighteenth–Century Sweden: Skills, Props, and Audiences
Lovisa Willborg Jonsson
Victoria & Albert Museum and The Royal College of Art, London

Indian Army Uniforms, Martial Race Ideology and Colonial Power in Nineteenth–Century India
Holly Winter, MA
University of Warwick

Manufacturing Processes that Cross Borders: The Introduction of the Jacquard Weaving Loom into Sweden
Kerstin S. Wölling, MA
KA Almgren Silk Mill and Museum, Stockholm

Queen Victoria’s Biography in Clothes
Lucy Worsley, PhD
Historic Royal Palaces, United Kingdom

‘Kimonos for Foreigners’: Issues of Cross–Cultural Appropriation and Orientalism of Kimonos Made for the Western Market, 1900–1920
Allie Yamaguchi, MA
International Scholar, Tokyo

The Maltese Ghonella Cloak: Cross–cultural Appropriation of Clothing and Textiles in the Era of Warfare
Dorit Young, MA
Independent Scholar, London

Conference – Interwoven: Dress that Crosses Borders and Challenges Boundaries

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