CALL FOR CONTRIBUTIONS

Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury

May 31st – June 1st 2018. Arnhem, The Netherlands

 

Conference Organiser: ArtEZ University of the Arts, in collaboration with State of Fashion Academic partners: Wageningen University & Research, Radboud University Nijmegen

 

BACKGROUND

 

THE FASHION COLLOQUIA is made up of a core network of 4 institutions (IFM-Paris, Parsons-New York, LCF-London, Domus-Milan) connected by their residence and involvement in the four big ‘Fashion weeks’ across the globe and housed at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. AIM Attracting a rich variety of contributions from a broad selection of people – from academia, media and practice – and utilize contributions for uploading to a newly established international repository for fashion.

 

CONTENT

 

At each colloquium there will be a mixture of specific themes of particular relevance to the specific location, and series themes, which will allow different sets of contributions to be added and explored. Some events at each of the colloquia will be streamed ‘live’ to preregistered users. We also aim to upload all the content from each colloquium. Previous Fashion Colloquia addressed a variety of topics, including: local production (Ho Chi Min, July 2016); Sustainable development in social, economic, environmental, cultural and geographic dimensions (Sao Paulo, April 2016); The future of the fashion weeks (Milan, September 2015).

 

FASHION COLLOQUIA STATE OF FASHION

 

The first edition of State of Fashion opens on 1st June 2018 under the title ‘Searching for the New Luxury’, curated by José Teunissen. State of Fashion is a four-yearly fashion event dedicated to a sustainable future, based in Arnhem, the Netherlands. An international and interdisciplinary platform for ideas, experiment, research and collaboration, State of Fashion brings together designers, companies and educators in fashion and textiles with a shared aim of making their design practice and the industry more forward-thinking and fair, as well as more innovative and ecologically solid. The event follows in the footsteps of the successful Arnhem Fashion Biennale, initiated by ArtEZ University of the Arts and the City of Arnhem, which saw five editions between 2007 and 2013. State of Fashion, organised by the Sonsbeek & State of Fashion foundation, is supported by the City of Arnhem, the province of Gelderland and the national Ministry for the Arts, and has ArtEZ and the Museum Arnhem as its main partners.

 

ARTEZ UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS

 

ArtEZ University of the Arts has a strong tradition and international reputation in Fashion Design with award winning courses and many renowned graduates such as Viktor & Rolf, Iris van Herpen and Lucas Ossendrijver. ArtEZ is increasingly becoming the home base for researchers in the arts and in design. Since 2002, the Fashion Professorship has played a leading role in developing fashion research and theory in the Netherlands. The Fashion Professorship aims to make a positive contribution to developing new insights and visions for the future of the fashion system in relation to the changing social, economic and technological developments. Since 2012, the Fashion Professorship has been leading CLICKNL – the Dutch national research agenda for fashion and textiles – in which a strong network of researchers, educational institutes and companies has been created. In 2015, the Centre of Expertise Future Makers was initiated, which focuses on the development and application of new materials and manufacturing processes in fashion and design. The ArtEZ Centre of Expertise Future Makers believes that research through creative design practices leads to new insights and thought-provoking questions regarding urgent societal challenges. We envision a more sustainable future in the fields of fashion and design, starting from human values and a more responsible and ethical engagement with material objects that surround our bodies and living spaces.

 

CALL FOR CONTRIBUTIONS

 

Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury May 31st – June 1st , 2018 in Arnhem, The Netherlands

 

Scientific committee José Teunissen, Professor, London College of Fashion, State of Fashion Danielle Bruggeman, Professor of Fashion, ArtEZ University of the Arts

Kim Poldner, Professor of Entrepreneurship, Wageningen University & Research

Anneke Smelik, Professor of Visual Culture, Radboud University Nijmegen

Ian King, Professor, London College of Fashion and University of the Arts, London

 

Introduction

 

‘Searching for the New Luxury’ will explore new definitions of ‘luxury’ against the backdrop of urgent environmental and social issues: less waste and less pollution, more equality, wellbeing, and inclusivity. We believe the world needs fearless imagination and experimentation to survive in order to get into tune with society again. The ‘new luxury’ faces a new world and fashion reality that addresses ethics, inclusivity and responsible consumerism expressed by a new imagination that connects us to the world by expressing these new values in a different and engaging way. We are asking for contributions that challenge our perceptions – that move our field forward. Conference theme It is increasingly urgent to create interventions in the current fashion system and to redefine its meaning and relevance. The ‘Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury’ will explore how to transition to a more resilient, inclusive and regenerative future of fashion. Regenerative societies can be viewed as holistic self-sustaining and self-designing ecosystems – a form of biomimicry and thus ‘innovation inspired by nature’ (Benyus 2009). The critical word here is ‘abundance’: mimicking natural systems that enable us to focus on what is possible instead of being restrained by how we should reduce our negative impact on the planet. From working against the earth, this paradigm shift entails a transition to an engaged collaboration with the earth and its abundant resources. The ‘Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury’ will critically reflect on how this affects the meaning of ‘luxury’ in contemporary culture and society. New (bio-)technologies, digital platforms and manufacturing processes are already being explored for their potential to overturn conventional concepts of luxury and set a more responsible agenda for the future of the industry. It is increasingly urgent to design with a purpose (Brismar 2015) and to envision a more responsible and ethical engagement with material objects that surround our bodies and living spaces. The world needs imagination and experimentation in order to develop a new kind of aesthetics and connectivity (Margolin 2007). Not just in the design of new textiles, materials and artefacts, but also in the crafting of radical new business models and forms of organization (King 2013). Aesthetics is essential to sustainability since ‘the aesthetic experience can lead to an emotional connection between object and subject, which creates a bond’ (Harper 2012). Therefore, aesthetics – in particular the imaginary power of fashion – is crucial in order to design for ‘emotional durability’ (Chapman 2009). We need more critical fashion practices and critical theories to “fashion” a more ethical, inclusive and responsible reality – expressed by an imagination that connects us to the world by conveying these new values in an engaging way. And we are looking for interventions and ‘objects that almost become a new category of objects’ (Sudjic 2008: 57). The ‘Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury’ thus underlines the importance of redefining value systems – starting from our own fundamental human values. We believe in the interaction between theoretical research and practice-based research and strongly welcome contributions from both academics and (fashion) practitioners, including MA and PhD students. Research through creative practices – artistic research and design research – will help to raise new questions, to provoke, and to develop new insights. In addition to traditional paper sessions, we thus invite creative practitioners to send in proposals for performances, film showings, participatory panel discussions or other creative interventions.

 

Subthemes

 

We welcome contributions related to the following subthemes:

- New materials, living materials, biomimicry, biotechnologies

- Strategies to design for closed loops; innovation, novel business models and different types of value chains

- Emotional connectivity, aesthetic sustainability, emotional durability

- The role of purpose in moving beyond economic value, towards human values, ethical values, emotional values, social values and cultural values

- The importance of agency; embodied subjectivity, ethical subjectivity and material agency – Developing a new kind of aesthetics, with a special role for all the senses

- Fashion’s power to create desire and imaginary worlds in order to transition into a more regenerative future society

- The role of resilience in fashion and design

- Other innovations that challenge our understanding of ‘new luxury’

 

Call for Abstracts

 

We invite abstracts (to be developed into full papers after selection) related to the conference theme and subthemes.

 

There will be a special student track for MA and PhD students. Abstracts should meet the following requirements:

- All abstracts must have a title and a word count of 300 words, written in English; – Include all contact information (name of author, affiliation, email address, phone number). In case of multiple authors, please indicate who is the corresponding author;

- Please don’t refer to name and/or affiliation in the text of the abstract;

- Relation to the conference theme / subthemes should be clearly indicated, please add 3-5 keywords to specify;

- If you are an MA or PhD student, please indicate this;

- Preferably submit as a Microsoft Word file. All abstracts will go through a double blind peer review. After selection of abstracts, full papers (3000 – 5000 words) can be developed. We are planning to select papers after the conference for publication in a special edition of an academic journal.

 

Call for abstracts August, 2017

Submission deadline for abstracts 17th November, 2017

Peer review and selection of abstracts completed.

Authors will be notified of acceptance 26th January, 2017

Registration & payment completed 20th April, 2018

Conference dates 31st May – 1st June, 2018 Ø

Abstracts should be sent to FashionColloquium@artez.nl before 17 November, 2017.

 

Call for Proposals for Creative Practice Contributions

We invite proposals for creative practice contributions related to the conference theme and subthemes. All proposals should meet the following requirements:

- All proposals must have a title and a word count of 300 words, written in English;

- Please include visuals (if possible) to illustrate the idea of your contribution;

- Include all contact information (name of practitioner, email address, phone number). In case of multiple contributors, please indicate who is the corresponding contributor;

- Relation to the conference theme / subthemes should be clearly indicated, please add 3-5 keywords to specify;

- If you are an MA or PhD student, please indicate this. All proposals will go through a review and selection process. The scientific committee will appoint a committee of both scholars and practitioners for the selection of creative practice contributions.

 

Call for proposals for creative practice contributions August, 2017

Submission deadline for proposals 26th January, 2018

Review and selection of proposals completed.

Contributors will be notified of acceptance 6th April, 2018

Registration & payment completed 20th April, 2018 Conference dates 31st May – 1st June, 2018

Proposals for creative practice contributions should be sent to FashionColloquium@artez.nl before 26th January, 2018.

 

We welcome a wide range of formats – from paper presentations, to round table discussions, exhibitions, to pecha kucha style formats. We are looking for contributions from interested people at various stages in their career development. We are an open, wide-ranging group of people simply dedicated to moving our field forward! Join us in Arnhem!

 

If you have any questions, please contact the conference organisers at FashionColloquium@artez.nl

 

CFP – Fashion Colloquium: Searching for the New Luxury May 31st – June 1st 2018, Arnhem, The Netherlands

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